Why Bubblebags? My views and questions

[bonapartist]

Hi, I'd like to get a few questions answered.

There's some article on the Cannabis Culture website from an old issue that said something basically to the tune of "bubbleman did a demonstration with his bags and a set of those from his competitors and got almost double the yield with his own." I couldn't find it when I looked for it again, but I'm curious if this is true. As I see it, properly fine silk screen is properly fine silk screen, and one set is going to be exactly the same as any other in terms of making product. Is this true? If it is, and you can give me a good reason, I'd probably buy your system.

There are many guides online to make ice water hash with basically nothing, and the process does work very well. Place frozen trim in a jar filled with cold water and cubes, shake vigorously for 5 to 10, put through fine enough mesh to seperate out plant material but not catch trichs, and allow that sieved water to sit for at least 1/2 hour. Trichs will fall to bottom - water is siphoned off, decanted off, evaporated with a light, sucked out with a syringe, etc.. This returns basically the same weight as you would get with the bubblebag systems, except its all in one big pile or mixed sized heads and some negligable vegetable matter. If I'm wrong, which I may well be, then tell me.

I bought 20 dollars worth of silk screen (150 micron and 100) - so I've been doing the above, but then running it through my loose, vegetable-screening mesh, then the 150 (yielding a small amount, purifying the rest, and seperating it out), then pouring the water again through the 100 (doing it again, better grade), and then letting all the smaller heads (all trichs smaller than 99 microns) evaporate off as described above. So I get 3 grades, of which the 100micron and 99>X which are pretty damn good.

Why is the bubblebag system better? For all I know there's a damn good reason I haven't considered thusfar, and would like to know.

[schrooomy420]

Welcome bonapartist. There are allot of folks on this site who could give you a better and more precise answer than I am about to, but figured since you asked and no one has answered yet that I will take a shot. But bare with me as I just woke up and it's super early compared to my normal sleep schedual and all, but here it goes.

First off, good for you for taking the initiative to make yourself some hash. There are a hundred and one ways that you can make hashish. About half a decade ago I lived in Amsterdam for a time working in a hash making house that utilized a washing machine and the ice o later bag system. That system made fine hashish, as I am sure that your system does as well. This forum is not just about bubble bags, but rather about the world of hashish in general. There are tons of ways and methods to extract out those precious glandular trichome heads, anything from ice water extraction, beating full plants over silk screens, rubbing live plants down by hand, shaking nuggets around in a frozen bowl, rubbing material over frozen Teflon, hell even rubbing colas across a virgins vaginal lips and scraping off the resins.

Now the reason that I personally feel that the bubble bags are the best system is because it is all about quality. Most methods will get out what you put in with terms to quantity, however it is the quality that I am personally after. With the deluxe bubble bag sets you have 8 different screen sizes. What we are after is pure gland heads without contamination. With the bubble bags you have these multiple screens which separate out different sized glad heads and also separate out contaminants. With the little system that you have going you are collecting everything under 99 microns. So you are getting glands, trichome stalks, dusty, very fine plant debris, little plant hairs etc... With the bubble bags, you have different sizes such as the 120, 90, 73, 45 and 25. Mostly you want the gland heads that are between the 90 - 45, smaller than that there will be allot of stalks and other fine debris in the material. The gland heads are contain the most cannabinoids on the plants and will bubble up and melt because of the volatile oils. When you have a bunch of stalks and plant hairs and everything mixed in it will not bubble up or melt as much as those things don't contain those same oils and the cannabinoids that we are after.

So, your method totally works, and will indeed get your rocks off, but with the multiple bag systems you are getting it as pure as possible and that is what we are after and the allure of it all. I hope my response helped out. Take care. Peace

[Bubbleman]

Ok damn good answer schroomy, i will try and cover the points you missed.
First off, the yeilds. When i first came out with the kit, my only competitor, was ice o lator, aned because it was a two bag system, it smallest micron bag was a 69u. This mean that everything below those amounts where lost down the drain. So with our 45u and 25u bag, we ended up getting quite a lot more yeild in total, due to these last two bags.
I should also mention that we do not use silk as it will lose its hold in water eventualy and not have the same size holes anymore> We use a much more expensive polyethelene-nitex. Its a pharmaceutical grade screen, that is much studier and long lasting than silk.
The biggest thing with our bags for sure are the fact that not only do we extract the material but we seperate it out into glands, THis is the key to achieving what i consider to be one of the nicest cannabis products in the world, " FULL MELT HASH"
A lot of people use a lot of methods to produce their hash, but very few, are churning out the full melt bubble on a regular basis. You need a great starting material some great tools and the abillity to put the two together properly.
I say bubblebags stands behinds its product, guarantee's its product, and of course is here for anyone who wants tips or information on their up coming batches. Now i offer that to anyone however they are making their hash>Not just bubblebag owners.

The only reason i even started the bag company up, was that the company that existed before me, wasnt super interested in showing north america this process. YOu had to go to amsterdam to find it, and even then it was only a two bag kit. Compared to our 8 bag kit, there's no contest.

I will leave you with a few pictures of some of my latest batches to show you what i mean by quality>
Remember " IF IT DONT BUBBLE, THEN IT AIN'T WORTH THE TROUBLE

http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/gallery/files/3///macro7x5shotofnebulabubble.JPG

http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/gallery/files/3///macro5akabchp73meltshot.jpg

http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/gallery/files/3///macrobchpbubble.jpg

http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/gallery/files/3///macrobchpdonesgalore.jpg

http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/gallery/files/3///macrocleardome2.jpg


Peace
Bubbleman

[bonapartist]

You both make excellent, valid points, and I appreciate your responses. It's quite possible I'll be buying a bubbleset as soon as I have the lucre at hand and enough trim on the horizon to make it sensible.

BTW, would either my 150 micron or 100 micron screen be well suited to dry sieving?

[Bubbleman]

Hey bonapartist, you can dry sift with either a 100u or a 150u screen no problem. I Would personaly use a smaller size as my favorite heads are around 60 to 120u large. Also if you want to make a high quality dry sift, use multiple screens, a larger holed screen to extract and a smaller holed screen to clean up what you have extracted. There are tons of glandular looking material that will end up in your dry sift, that is NOT ACTIVE, and basicaly keeps the dry sift from melting into a liquid. The cleaner you can get it the clearer and more efficient your medicinals will be.


Peace
Bubbleman