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View Full Version : Sour Diesel 120, 73, & 25 wet and dry



Daveytree
09-24-2011, 05:06 PM
So now that I'm at least ten runs in, I figured I could post some pics here as I continue to improve my process. These are macros of Sour Diesel 120, 73, and 25 in the wet state just after I chopped them up.

I'll post pics of the same batch when it's dry... just wanted to compare them for my own knowledge, and the pics came out kinda cool so I thought I'd share. It's neat seeing the product up close - you can make out individual trichome heads - but it's also humbling, because you can see all the imperfections when it's this detailed.

I guess I gotta keep improving my washing technique to get closer to the purity I want!

Hope you enjoy, and thanks for the great site.


120m Sour Diesel wet
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qd4nwIJXT5Q/Tn4Hl0qvaUI/AAAAAAAAAEM/h3jDMv7JZ8w/s1024/DSC00169.JPG


120m Sour Diesel wet (zoom)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9No2rcv52iE/Tn4Hg_seuXI/AAAAAAAAAEI/iOs42eoIMck/s912/DSC00169_2.JPG


73m Sour Diesel wet (still the meltiest, and my personal fave - but my friends seem to like the 120... go figure, I guess FMCD is an acquired taste, who knew?)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IvsZx1Ic1KU/Tn4HZTbIePI/AAAAAAAAAEA/30ajGtxTMu0/s1024/DSC00166.JPG


73m Sour Diesel wet (zoom)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Qy40rKFxVl4/Tn4HZN8MbhI/AAAAAAAAAD8/F6DPBmmJ4s8/s912/DSC00166_2.JPG


25m Sour Diesel wet
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_R5JpL4G3Yk/Tn4Hb2DDNUI/AAAAAAAAAEE/1m26nswX-As/s1024/DSC00161.JPG


25m Sour Diesel wet (zoom)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2Litun2w954/Tn4HPzsXUZI/AAAAAAAAAD4/FQQuHWcGJFg/s912/DSC00161_2.JPG

Green Supreme
09-24-2011, 05:11 PM
Wicked pics dude. Thanks for sharing. Peace GS

Daveytree
09-24-2011, 06:00 PM
Thanks! Should be dry in a day or two, I'll make sure to put some pics up for comparison.

CthulhuMelt
09-25-2011, 01:41 AM
Great Lookin hash ya got there! awesome shots man keep it up!

Daveytree
10-02-2011, 06:32 PM
Many thanks for the feedback, folks - finally got some shots of the dry product up... here for your viewing pleasure.

120 Micron Sour Diesel (dry)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Sk5qvR4WEd4/ToLbewS6j5I/AAAAAAAAAFA/iJnjoxe6Lto/s1024/DSC00140.JPG


73 Micron Sour Diesel (dry) - this is my meltiest yet... practically melts in your hands.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--a37bGAxb9c/ToLbMeSCZqI/AAAAAAAAAE8/LK1ntsKelIk/s1024/DSC00144.JPG

another 73....
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G4t2B5tZZ1s/ToLbjvmBNeI/AAAAAAAAAFE/jLiI3-l35Yk/s1024/DSC00146.JPG


25 Micron Sour Diesel (dry) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7Iv03_Ow7Hk/ToLcMKyKVxI/AAAAAAAAAFY/aooCwLJT-sE/s1024/DSC00161.JPG

Hope you all enjoy.... I know I am :bongin:

18dummy
10-05-2011, 03:36 AM
Wow :party1:

Daveytree
10-05-2011, 04:36 AM
thanks! ..and oops, i mislabeled the top pic as 25 micron at first... changed it to 120... which is what i happened to be enjoying while i made the post :-)~

kushkommander
11-03-2011, 07:51 PM
amazing pics and quality melt there, thanks for sharing :D

shmalphy
12-18-2011, 08:01 PM
what do you dry/cure it in? is that glass?

How long, and at what conditions (temp and humidity) do you cure it?

Can you give a brief rundown or your technique used to make it?

I read your other thread about using a spoon, which I do as well. I just wanted to know what other considerations you take to achieve such a ig quality finished product.

I see you say you wet down your dry trim, which is something I was planning to do, allow the trim to cure then reconstitute it with a spray bottle to basically moisten it. This will release some of the chlorophyll.

You also said you remove the contaminants with a spray bottle, do you mean remove the contaminants from the trim, or from the finished product, because I can see both making sense.

I have also been planning to rinse out the murky water form the hash on my next batch as I feel this will help reduce the sap like residue that is left behind from the processing water in the finished product that reduces burn quality and purity.

chrones
12-18-2011, 11:29 PM
shmalphy:
Personally I would cure in a glass jar but that is just my opinion.

As far as using wet vs. dry trim...you will always get a better product with less contaminate using wet product. Dry martial can break down much easier than wet.

Now with the spray bottle I say it is a must. A good sprayer with some ice water in it allows you to do a finale wash of your product before you spoon it out of the bag.

You look like you already know a thing or two so I hope this helps you refine your process. Happy Bubbling!

chrones
12-18-2011, 11:30 PM
Also a 90 micron bag will help.

Daveytree
12-21-2011, 12:36 AM
Also a 90 micron bag will help.

In two days I get more bags to bring me up to an 8 bag set.... can't wait - I'll post pics when I get some new 90 and 45 micron hash to smoke! :smoke1:

Daveytree
12-21-2011, 01:01 AM
what do you dry/cure it in? is that glass?

How long, and at what conditions (temp and humidity) do you cure it?

Can you give a brief rundown or your technique used to make it?

I read your other thread about using a spoon, which I do as well. I just wanted to know what other considerations you take to achieve such a ig quality finished product.

I see you say you wet down your dry trim, which is something I was planning to do, allow the trim to cure then reconstitute it with a spray bottle to basically moisten it. This will release some of the chlorophyll.

You also said you remove the contaminants with a spray bottle, do you mean remove the contaminants from the trim, or from the finished product, because I can see both making sense.

I have also been planning to rinse out the murky water form the hash on my next batch as I feel this will help reduce the sap like residue that is left behind from the processing water in the finished product that reduces burn quality and purity.

Chrones pretty much responded with a lot of what I would say... but here's a quick rundown of my technique with some minor differences:

- Prepping: I spray my dry trim with water immediately before freezing. Still experimenting with how this makes a difference. Seems to me the trichomes/stalks will be coated in a layer of ice right off the bat, making it easier for them to break apart in the ice-water mixture. I also feel that the water slightly reconstitutes the leaf, making it less brittle and therefore less contaminant in the final product. Like Chrones said, if you have the option of freezing fresh uncured trim, do it - don't bother drying it. You will get the best product from "fresh frozen" trim. I don't have access to that, so I use the dry.

- Mixing: I pour some ice water into the bottom of the bucket, then add a few inches of crushed ice. Then a few inches layer of frozen trim, followed by another layer of crushed ice. Add a second layer of trim, then cover it with the rest of my ice. Fill the bucket with ice water, and let rest for 20-30 minutes. Then I mix by hand for 3-5 minutes (I do my mash in a bucket without any bags first, then transfer to bags after mixing) pour it into my first work bag and let it sit for another 20-30 minutes.

- Draining: as I lift the first work bag, I let most of the water drain out... but then I like to pour a couple of gallons of ice water right on top to flush any remaining loose trichomes to the bottom of the bag. I do this instead of doing a second run on the same material. It increases yield, and prevents the decomposition of leaf contaminants you get from letting your wet, stirred trim rest too long.

- Washing: the rest of the draining works pretty much the standard way... working your way down through to the smaller bags, except just like Chrones said, I use a spray bottle filled with ice water to "wash" the trichomes in the bottom of the bag a few times to flush contaminants out before spooning the hash out of the bag.

- Drying/Curing: I let my fresh spooned patties rest on a 25m screen for about 20 minutes, then I transfer to unbleached parchment paper and use the edge of my spoon to break the pattie apart into a powder. I make loosely folded pouches from the parchment paper, which I label with the screen size then rest on paper towels in a dark & dry location (for me, this location is a wooden shelf in a room with a radiator - that dry heat helps it cure). The moisture wicks through the parchment to the paper towels, which I change daily until no more moisture is apparent. In all I let the product cure for about 10 days before sealing it in a mason jar and storing is in a cool, dark place.

I was a farmer for several years (indoor and out) back in the day, but I only started making bubble hash a couple months ago, so I am by no means an expert -- if anyone sees flaws in my process, I'm all ears.

shmalphy
12-21-2011, 07:12 PM
Thank you very much for the info. I do mine in a similar way, and am just learning about the washing step. Other than that our process is very similar.

I always make it from fresh frozen, but have other people asking a best way to do dry shake. I was thinking of the misting idea before freezing. but I was not sure if the trichs would be trapped in ice. Maybe mist, then wait an hour for the leaf to absorb in a closed container, then freeze? I was gonna try both and report back here.

I have never tried parchment, all I have is bleached, should I go out and get the unbleached or is it that important? I would also avoid heat I have heard because you will volatize the delicate aromatic oils. A cool dry place is better than warm and dry from my understanding, but I am still designing my curing process, and would appreciate any input on the subject.

Daveytree
12-23-2011, 07:14 PM
I have never tried parchment, all I have is bleached, should I go out and get the unbleached or is it that important?

As you know, making a good product is about all the little seemingly inconsequential details that actually add up to make a big difference.... bleached paper has chlorine and other chemicals used in the process, and which are retained in small amounts in the paper itself... even the slightest chance that they leach into my hash and affect the quality, is enough for me not to take the chance :-)



I would also avoid heat I have heard because you will volatize the delicate aromatic oils. A cool dry place is better than warm and dry from my understanding, but I am still designing my curing process, and would appreciate any input on the subject.

True, the room I use to dry has a radiator on one wall but it doesn't actually get that warm (landlords can be stingy with that!)... the radiator functions for me as a dehumidifier... as I live in SF unfortunately all my unheated rooms are too moist in the early morning to allow me to dry with confidence.

shmalphy
12-23-2011, 07:32 PM
That makes sense.

I want to try using dry ice to desiccate. I heard it works for buds but leaves the chlorophyl in. Seems to me that it would be a good way to remove all the water fast before curing, possibly enhancing the flavor by reducing oxidization.

Also, I have been looking into anhydrous epsom salt (you just bake it in the oven, can still be used as plant food, as it takes back any moisture removed) because that works for fungi.

Obviously, a cure would still be required, but it seems that any option outside of heat should be explored, especially those that reduced oxidization.

TS
12-24-2011, 02:43 AM
some best personal bubble Iv seen made in awhile here... great job great instructions ... only thing that I don't fully get the angle is letting your trim an ice sit in a bucket for 20-30 mins before u start stirring ?

otherwise not sure I could have explained it better myself..

props .. lets see more pics.. get some melt shots too!!

-tox

DancesWithWeed
12-24-2011, 06:04 AM
Great Job Bro.Looks like straight candy goodness.Love the FMD.Keep up the good work Bro.Peace and Stay Safe,DancesWithWeed:cool1:

salad931
12-24-2011, 10:03 AM
yooo can you maybe get some pictures of the trim youre using? im doin 3-5 minute hand washes as well with some nice indoor stuff, but gettin no where near the kinda shit yer getting-was hopin to see what kindda quality i would need to get fmcd like that

mad props thanks in advance

hmmmtastey
12-26-2011, 05:40 PM
Very nice Davy! Looks very close to the Sour D. I have been pulling and if I had a better camera and still had some left I'd take a pic of my 2 minute hand run and show you, looked like the best brown sugar! I run the 120-45 together though... But I have to ask, HOW do you get your 25 looking so good? I don't even run the 25 bag anymore on my Sour D because it isn't worth it to me and comes out green or black and not melty....

Anyways, great job! Keep up the good work!

I just got me a Bubblenow XL, love the thing, maybe we can compare our products once I get pics... I just need to find me a better camera!

Daveytree
12-26-2011, 09:23 PM
some best personal bubble Iv seen made in awhile here... great job great instructions ... only thing that I don't fully get the angle is letting your trim an ice sit in a bucket for 20-30 mins before u start stirring ?

otherwise not sure I could have explained it better myself..

props .. lets see more pics.. get some melt shots too!!

-tox

This hobby is still pretty new to me, but from what I understand the pre-soak is to allow the overall temperature of your ice slurry to get as close to the ice itself as possible, before agitating the trichomes. I guess the idea is that when you add ice water to your ice, your water is still not as cold as it could be... letting it sit with the ice makes it colder? I'll have to try without the pre-soak and compare, I'm curious now.

Workin on the melt pics, still haven't quite figured out how shoot while smoking as the other pros in this site have!

Daveytree
12-26-2011, 09:45 PM
yooo can you maybe get some pictures of the trim youre using? im doin 3-5 minute hand washes as well with some nice indoor stuff, but gettin no where near the kinda shit yer getting-was hopin to see what kindda quality i would need to get fmcd like that

mad props thanks in advance

Thanks, I'll try to get some pics of my trim but it's nothing spectacular - I think the key is that it's got a significant proportion of popcorn buds, and I spend a lot of time pulling out yellow leaves + stems.

It is outdoor/light-dep SD. Seems very well-matured to me, which I think it also important for the hash... nice full trichomes.

I do have a photo of a single bud - it's about about 2cm long. These make up a good 40-50% of the trim I use:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-25fT6_rSr8Q/TvjoxlPwEZI/AAAAAAAAAJw/d-PFLkHyiNY/s1024/DSC00159.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0DCmZJ-vAS8/TvjpKe1i0vI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/JofXaGy-NCc/s912/DSC00159.JPG

Daveytree
12-26-2011, 09:51 PM
But I have to ask, HOW do you get your 25 looking so good?

I've been surprised at the 25 myself - though to be clear it's not that melty. Pretty much like your typical hash one used to get before bubble came along. Smells "traditional," which I actually quite like - and I smoke the 25 when I feel like I need shot of espresso as compared to a latte (melty). The sativa trichomes aren't melty, but they do work ;-)

As to why it comes out so clean, perhaps because I wash it with the ice water? Maybe something to do with the maturity/strain of the SD I use....

hmmmtastey
12-27-2011, 02:08 AM
What you are using definitely looks better than what I've been using. I don't have any of that left or I'd take pictures, but here's what I just recently made with my new Bubblenow XL:

http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad96/hmmmtastey/IMG_0373.jpg

Everyone seems to love the stuff... except for a few who think they make better, in some cases they may be right, in some cases, I'll let those who have smoked it decide! :-D

hmmmtastey
12-27-2011, 02:11 AM
Actually, one guy who thinks he makes better still loved this stuff!
Came up later asking for the "earwax".

hmmmtastey
12-27-2011, 02:31 AM
Oh and Davy, I've noticed that a few of the Pros on here don't actually smoke when they take their pics, but instead have it on a screen, being held by something, with a torch in hand and camera in the other.