Autoflowering outdoors summer 2010

You guys seem like a helpful crew and after hours of research and searching I still have a few questions. I have a slight dilemma, I am wanting to grow outdoors this summer for the first time but need to leave for university around September 3 or so.. I am able to possibly come back once or twice after that if absolutely necessary but it would be mch easier to have a crop done and harvested before late august. *This has led me to believe that autoflowering strains may be the solution to my problem. I haven't seen many posts or grow journals on successful autoflowering outdoor grows but am sure that it is possible and probably the key to my delimma.*
Here's my logistics:
I live in the lower part of Michigan that tends to get alot of sunlight and decent amount of natural rain
I am planning on growing 8-10 plants
I will be using fertilizer and nutes but am not sure which ones yet due to not knowing which strain
Can check plants daily and water as often as needed
Can afford most any outdoor grow setup but would like to spend the least amount required.*

My questions:*
Do autoflowering strains grow well outdoors? Most journals I've seen have been indoors

Any recomendation on strains based on my logistics?*
As of now I am looking at "easyryder" which is a lowryder #2 x ak47 cross - from attitude seedbank - would this be a good choice?

What would be the best time to plant if I'd like the harvest to be mid or early august and is that timeframe possible?*

Do fertilizer requirements change at all with autoflowering strains?

Any difference in potting materials?*

Any rough estimate on dry yield per plant assuming 8-10 hours of direct light and proper nutes?*

Any other tips or links would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again
Calp

*

There are 2 reasons for plants to autoflower. Being cross bred with ruderalis is 1 way. Getting rootbound works for many strains.

With ruderalis you have your Lowryder and its sub progeny. In my opinion, these types of plants yield low because of almost no vegetive period, very leafy bud structures, and I have yet to have pleasant taste or effect from anything with ruderalis mixed into it.

Several strains will autoflower when rootbound, but this is a technique mostly used indoors (mostly). Setting up a proper hole in the ground lined with plastic or somesuch takes some work, but has been done successfully. Also in big plastic above ground containers.

Most strains of cannabis will still rely on 12 hours of light or less to initiate flowering. Many people who want to havest early use some sort of light deprevation technique. Cover the whole greenhouse, bag each individual plant, put them in the pitch black garage at the same time every day.. etc. There are even automated self covering tents available ( http://autoflowertent.com/ ) never used 1, just providing the link

Switch to flowering nutes when the plants begin to show development of flower structures.

If you are to plant in the ground, it is best to ammend or completely replace native soils.

Yields vary according to so many factors it is impossible to estimate. Untill the plant is finished and dried in your hand, you will not know what yield will be, especially if you are running a given strain, seed type or clone for the very first time. Anyone who gives you numbers for this is talking out of thier ass, period.

To stick to your fall timeframe for school and still produce something, an auto flowering strain, some root restriction, and/or light deprovation.... either alone or in combination may be the solution you are after. You should also be able to get flowering times, feeding schedules suggestions etc from the seed supplier specific to the seed you choose.

Good luck in your growing, hope this helps.
YBG

P.S. Here is an old article on the return of ruderalis to breeding for intrest.
http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/articles/3033.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YukonBikerGuy

I have yet to have pleasant taste or effect from anything with ruderalis mixed into it.

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^^^I totally agree with this statement.

Also, I have never seen any light dep herb that was really worth mentioning either. I live in Humboldt and a lot of people are hyped on it to avoid the competitive market in the months to follow. It always goes for insanely cheap, way cheaper than OD even.

IMHO what you need is a trustworthy friend. Years ago I was in a similar scenario. I grew up in New England and began attending art school in CA. My childhood homie for life would always take over when I left in September. He'd harvest it all and bag it up for my return around the xmas holidays. We'd split it all right down the middle like friends should. We were always more than stoked, but again you gotta find the right person.

Wow thanks for the very informative response! I still think that autoflowering is the easiest and most practical solutionto my problem. Since all frms of haresting early seem to produce worse results I will just be happy with the yield that I do get. I do have onefriend who could possibly help me buy I would be leaving a good month or so before harvest. I feel like this last month is very criticalfor a good harvest (maybe I'm wrong) so I feel a bit worried that he would screw it up by harvesting at the wrog time not flushing properly etc. I will defnetly talk to him alot about it and if we go with that approach he's going to have to research the hell out of his part.

Do you have any specific strain recomendation for autoflowering seeds? It's quite hard to find outdoor reviews. I will also be planting in pots outdoors with completely fresh soil and sterilized equipment.

Thanks for all your guys help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YukonBikerGuy

There are 2 reasons for plants to autoflower. Being cross bred with ruderalis is 1 way. Getting rootbound works for many strains.

With ruderalis you have your Lowryder and its sub progeny. In my opinion, these types of plants yield low because of almost no vegetive period, very leafy bud structures, and I have yet to have pleasant taste or effect from anything with ruderalis mixed into it.

Several strains will autoflower when rootbound, but this is a technique mostly used indoors (mostly). Setting up a proper hole in the ground lined with plastic or somesuch takes some work, but has been done successfully. Also in big plastic above ground containers.

Most strains of cannabis will still rely on 12 hours of light or less to initiate flowering. Many people who want to havest early use some sort of light deprevation technique. Cover the whole greenhouse, bag each individual plant, put them in the pitch black garage at the same time every day.. etc. There are even automated self covering tents available ( http://autoflowertent.com/ ) never used 1, just providing the link

Switch to flowering nutes when the plants begin to show development of flower structures.

If you are to plant in the ground, it is best to ammend or completely replace native soils.

Yields vary according to so many factors it is impossible to estimate. Untill the plant is finished and dried in your hand, you will not know what yield will be, especially if you are running a given strain, seed type or clone for the very first time. Anyone who gives you numbers for this is talking out of thier ass, period.

To stick to your fall timeframe for school and still produce something, an auto flowering strain, some root restriction, and/or light deprovation.... either alone or in combination may be the solution you are after. You should also be able to get flowering times, feeding schedules suggestions etc from the seed supplier specific to the seed you choose.

Good luck in your growing, hope this helps.
YBG

P.S. Here is an old article on the return of ruderalis to breeding for intrest.
http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/articles/3033.html

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If you are going into a project with a partner, it would be best if you were both familiar with all stages of development, from planting through harvest. Then agree on a plan and stick to it.

The best way to judge ripeness is by looking at the trichomes under magnification. 10% clear, 80% cloudy, 10% amber is 'perfect' but anywhere in that sort of range is right, it will vary by strain and location by how many turn at a given time. You want most of the trichs cloudy. You may have 20% 60% 20%, 10% 70% 20%, etc... you see. Outdoor growing also adds the challenges of the outdoors, you may have to havest earlier than optimum due to cold or prolonged rain etc, but still try to aim for ripeness if possible. The ladies will tell you when they are ready.

Sorry, but I do not have any recommendations on autoflowering seed varieties, I don't play that way. :)

YBG

Just be sure your friend is actually trust worthy!! And good luck in your ventures.