Moldy or mildewy starting material = moldy mildewy hash?

90.0%+ (probably more like 98-99%) THC


Teehee. You go girl. Peace GS

ps. 25 bag success is quite easy and the hash can be amazing. The jerk and pull method can found on the net. I have also seen a slow gentle side to side while pulling up on the bags work with little to no strain to the back

Lol, you need to get your facts together.......I am doing this for someone, it wasnt my material, I DID IT TO HELP! And let me tell you, you cant tell it was ever moldy now and the 90 and 73 micron are pretty melty plus the yield looks to be at least an HP off old moldy shit that would have been trash.
I bet you have never even seen 99% THC :)

So how many bags do you use anyways, just 2 or 3?

Oh yea and I'm touchy because you insulted me without even knowing what the hell you were talking about :mad:

And please go into some detail about this supposed 99% THC......probably BS

GreenSupreme - I agree about the 25u bag sometimes it is worth it, but I'll usually only do it if it is really good starting material you know? :)
Also, with the 25 bag i thump the bottom of the bag very gently and its easier than jerk and pull and works great after the bulk of the waters out

Well


I don't know why you said "go girl" GS, but whatever...i am a dude though.....
anyways....

I cant say much, because it conflicts with the intrest of this site.

But there are terms I could maybe mention??

Non-Polar pull, 220deg oil bath/ whipping air.

That can even be taken further/made better still....through isomerization
Humboldt, i was rude.I'm sorry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GanjaGuru

Well


I don't know why you said "go girl" GS, but whatever...i am a dude though.....
anyways....

I cant say much, because it conflicts with the intrest of this site.

But there are terms I could maybe mention??

Non-Polar pull, 220deg oil bath/ whipping air.

That can even be taken further/made better still....through isomerization
Humboldt, i was rude.I'm sorry

---

Isomerization takes pretty much everything out except for THC right? You know pure THC isnt that great, it needs some of the other active compounds to give the full high effect and still taste decent which is why i like bubble hash. Sorry if I was rude, I just feel like you kind of assaulted me without having all the information since I ran this solely to help someone out (well I get a little out of it for doing it, but not like I need it at the moment) and I didnt even get the material until it was already moldy and nasty. Some of it had bud rot so I just threw that away because if I'm correct it can't be ran right?

[quote=GanjaGuru;70672]"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HumboldtSmoka420

Well you see I have a confession to make, I'm anti 25 micron bag! DOWN WITH THE 25 MICRON AKA HERNIA BAG LOL :snake: "

agree...25 m(when used as directed) is lame..

funny story
I was doing work for a guy, making bubble....
and my girl, bless her heart always trying to help....
dropped the full 25m bag infront of the job boss.
she blushed in emberassment......thank god it wasn't 73m..few

anyway.....
what i do now is make the ice water hash, and collect the fullmelt.
Then I re set & viciously try and knock off all the trichs with only a work bag(220m) and the 25m as the sole collector.
Then I have a bunch of green kief basicly
And then I seperate the good from the bad...
By applying any method mentioned in the book Cannabis Alchemy.

Keeps waste hash down

Also When marijuana becomes moldy, or mildew contaminated it is then garbage. If your stupid enough...to smoke mold or mildew, or fucked up enough to try and sell that, or give it away....wow

and why is there mold/mildew anyway? not paying attention?
to much humidity
moisture?
strain contamination
etc?

Sounds like you need to fix that(mold mildew problem), learn about personal ethics(not harming yourself), medical/social responsibility(not hurting sick people), and throw your garbage where it belongs.

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http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...d_facepalm.jpg

http://www.bubblebag.com/faq/index.php

Quote:

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Can I make Bubble Herbal Extract with moldy plant matter?

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Quote:

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YES. Bubble Man recommends an extra mold-removing step: place your herbal extract into a jar full of water with a tight-fitting lid and shake it up. The mold spores will float to the top and can be skimmed off with a spoon or turkey baster. Then, rinse the jar into the 25 micron bubble bag and press the moisture out as usual.

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btw thc breaks down into other cannabinoids as it matures. maybe you should let your plants finish next time if you get such a high thc ratio ganjaguru

^^^Good link and info bubblecrack. Learned something new :)

THANK YOU bubblecrack!!!! I knew bubbleman himself said you can run moldy material with no ill effects, just couldn't find a link! I just didnt do the jar thing because I had soooooo much to run, it would've taken me days using a gallon jar.

Oh yea and I used the 25 micron bag on this stuff in attempt to filter it more :)

Well guess who is wrong. I guess

Me...

I still prefer not to use mold or mildew material, but after reading for a while everyone except the real hash snobs say ice water extraction is fine, as the desired material sinks, and the mold/mildew float etc.........

A good idea? Probably better to try not to
Acceptable? Definatly more than making edibles.
So...Sorry


That being said.........


The quality and quantity of the THC is determined by the
quality and potency of the starting material. The final product from very strong cannabis material
contains a much higher percentage of THC than the final product from marijuana or hashish that is
less potent. The quality of the THC and the characteristics of the effect (high) are
determined by the relative positions of the double bonding in the THC molecule. The
higher-rotating forms are more potent than the low-rotating and produce a higher, more
psychedelic and spiritual effect. Methods for converting THC from low-to-high-rotating
follow.
The quantity of cannabidiol in the material is important, as it may be converted to THC,
thereby increasing the potency of the stuff proportionally. Experience has indicated that the
quantity of cannabidiol is usually at least equal to the quantity of THC. Because of this,
the strength of the material can be at least doubled through isomerization, and in some cases
potency may be increased five to six times.
By using the correct things and methods to convert the cannabidiol to THC, it is
possible simultaneously to convert the THC (that which occurs naturally in the stuff and
also that which has been produced from cannabidiol) to higher-rotating forms. The
highest benefit is obtained by starting with material high in cannabidiol, isomerizing the
cannabidiol to THC, and converting the THC to its higher-rotating form. Both the
potency of the stuff and the quality of the high are greatly increased.

~C.A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GanjaGuru

Well guess who is wrong. I guess

Me...

I still prefer not to use mold or mildew material, but after reading for a while everyone except the real hash snobs say ice water extraction is fine, as the desired material sinks, and the mold/mildew float etc.........

A good idea? Probably better to try not to
Acceptable? Definatly more than making edibles.
So...Sorry


That being said.........


The quality and quantity of the THC is determined by the
quality and potency of the starting material. The final product from very strong cannabis material
contains a much higher percentage of THC than the final product from marijuana or hashish that is
less potent. The quality of the THC and the characteristics of the effect (high) are
determined by the relative positions of the double bonding in the THC molecule. The
higher-rotating forms are more potent than the low-rotating and produce a higher, more
psychedelic and spiritual effect. Methods for converting THC from low-to-high-rotating
follow.
The quantity of cannabidiol in the material is important, as it may be converted to THC,
thereby increasing the potency of the stuff proportionally. Experience has indicated that the
quantity of cannabidiol is usually at least equal to the quantity of THC. Because of this,
the strength of the material can be at least doubled through isomerization, and in some cases
potency may be increased five to six times.
By using the correct things and methods to convert the cannabidiol to THC, it is
possible simultaneously to convert the THC (that which occurs naturally in the stuff and
also that which has been produced from cannabidiol) to higher-rotating forms. The
highest benefit is obtained by starting with material high in cannabidiol, isomerizing the
cannabidiol to THC, and converting the THC to its higher-rotating form. Both the
potency of the stuff and the quality of the high are greatly increased.

~C.A

---

Dont get me wrong, if it was up to me I'd be using fresh frozen every time, but I also don't mind helping people out when they need it. I hated to see dude lose like at least 30 lbs of at least half buds half trim, so I offered to help him out to recover at least something. So if you had 30 lbs of moldy material would you throw it away? If so, thats pretty wasteful and I would hope you would at least give it away to someone who would use it.
Also, about isomerization............doesn't it get rid of everything but THC or almost? If so, no thank you I would rather have all the terpenes (that arent water soluble) and whatever the rest of the stuff is called that gives bubble hash its wonderful taste. Isomerization also seems like too much trouble, besides this bubble gets me pretty lifted already lol
If I want stronger, I'll just whip up some QWISO real quick or rosin is better.

Moldy bud is good for something!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GanjaGuru

Well guess who is wrong. I guess

Me...

I still prefer not to use mold or mildew material, but after reading for a while everyone except the real hash snobs say ice water extraction is fine, as the desired material sinks, and the mold/mildew float etc.........

A good idea? Probably better to try not to
Acceptable? Definatly more than making edibles.
So...Sorry


That being said.........


The quality and quantity of the THC is determined by the
quality and potency of the starting material. The final product from very strong cannabis material
contains a much higher percentage of THC than the final product from marijuana or hashish that is
less potent. The quality of the THC and the characteristics of the effect (high) are
determined by the relative positions of the double bonding in the THC molecule. The
higher-rotating forms are more potent than the low-rotating and produce a higher, more
psychedelic and spiritual effect. Methods for converting THC from low-to-high-rotating
follow.
The quantity of cannabidiol in the material is important, as it may be converted to THC,
thereby increasing the potency of the stuff proportionally. Experience has indicated that the
quantity of cannabidiol is usually at least equal to the quantity of THC. Because of this,
the strength of the material can be at least doubled through isomerization, and in some cases
potency may be increased five to six times.
By using the correct things and methods to convert the cannabidiol to THC, it is
possible simultaneously to convert the THC (that which occurs naturally in the stuff and
also that which has been produced from cannabidiol) to higher-rotating forms. The
highest benefit is obtained by starting with material high in cannabidiol, isomerizing the
cannabidiol to THC, and converting the THC to its higher-rotating form. Both the
potency of the stuff and the quality of the high are greatly increased.

~C.A

---

cannabidiol has many different medicinal benefits. I don't see why anyone would want to convert that to thc. especially someone so concerned with "not hurting sick people"