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My buddy just got 2 different boxes, one from GN and one from Wolf Productions.
The GN box - http://www.everyonedoesit.com/online...ProductID=3480
The Wolf Productions box - http://www.wellcoolstuff.com/Merchan...oduct_Count=14
But I can't find any info on the screen sizes in those boxes... Do you think either of them are capable of making full melt dry sift?
I have made melty dry seive on several occasions with the Bubblebox. I have run material throught the box, but much more effective I have found is to seive first with a larger screen then clean the powder with the Bubblebox. Perhaps I will run a thread on this in the next month, just need to collect material and wait for my screen to come back. Good luck. Peace GS
your gonna have alot more luck with the multi screen boxs, i would say gypsy's box would make full melt well before that other one you posted.
My box has three screens for melt making, and has never let me down yet.
here is some melty dry sift i have made from my bubblebox...
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...08740Large.JPG
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...08744Large.JPG
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...08749Large.JPG
peace
Bubbleman
PS, That single screen box would have better luck producing a melty keif in sub zero temperatures. try sifting some frozen dry trim in minus 0 or colder , and you will see the tastiest of the heads break off first in subzero' temps and offer a melty product from a single screen .
What kind of screen sizes are best for dry sift? Same as the bubblebags, 220/160/73u and so on?
yeah man, i smoked some blueberry dry sift that bubbled up violently.
The bubble box size screens are 140u, 107u and 70u. If you are using silk, and doing it yourself, you can get by with a 110lpi screen and a 200lpi screen for clean up. THe first does the extraction, the second the 200lpi is the screen you will use to clean the resin heads up. Ie remove the contaminant ie the cystolith hairs and capitate stalks, that to the nake eye look golden and glandular, but are not active.
Peace
Bubble man
How can you possibly know so much? I love it, posting on these forums is like a lecture on hash :D
Thats what this site is about alright. Info is good, thanks to all that share. Peace GS
try re-sifting your dry sifted resin to improve potency and meltability
after the resin has been worked through the 1, 2 or 3 meshes, I feel it's worthwhile to re-sift the resin heads through the (tapped clean) screens again
stop re-sifting the resin when 90% of it has passed through...the remaining 10% on top of the mesh will be mostly broken up plant matter and can be set aside.
re-sift the resin gently 3 times, remove 10% the first sift, 5% for the 2nd sift and less again for each subsequent re-sifting..but just once through the same screen will noticeably improve the purity/quality/ "intenseness" of the high
triple sifting your resin could mean the difference between hash that sizzles and hash that bubbles..or somewhere inbetween
Well from experience I can tell you that just because you get a bubble box doesn't mean your going to get fmcd sift. To outright say so is erroneous. I made a thread about it and got told it was a technique and an art so why the admin is saying this and not adding what he told me about technique and the art bit in order to attain the fmcd I find kind of odd. If I knew my high grade just burnt instead of bubbled I could have made some bubbley ice hash. Why bother smoking shit that doesnt bubble? If this is how I knew it was going to perform I would have never bought it. Well, it is a nice addition so Im not all that butthurt over it. Just want bubbley sift thats all. And admin, why if you make all this beautiful hash with your box would you need to use the same pics as the one in your champagne thread? Its beautiful and all but I would imagine the creator of the thing to have alot more pics than that. Dont mean to come off as a troll. Maby the blue dream will make the bubbley sift, I havn't all togeather given up hope.
i consider the boxes or any kief extraction device more of a tool than anything.
its like giving a hammer nails and wood to someone(non carpenter) and saying frame a house. yes you can do it but it is YOU that makes the dry sift. to bash the boxes is like someone bashing a hammer and nails cause they cant frame a house. the bubblebox is just a tool in my opinion(a quality one). if you want a quality tool for cleaning kief i would recommend the bubblebox and the screen set. the screen set works awesome. recently been using it to rough card bud over and i can still achieve a melty dry sift. even on the 107 :) great hashmaking/cleaning tools :) so id say bubblebox over those other boxes. thats just my opinion tho hehe. peace.
I get little piles of white crystal when using frozen trim and making light passes with the card yet this stuff still just burns. I first use an initial seperation with a broken 220u work bag stretched over a bowl. Freeze this for a half an hour, card it for 3-4 minutes in the box then back into the freezer and repeat. I make about 6 full swipes back and fourth in this time period. then gently swipe the small collection on the next screen. Thats just one method I tried unsuccessfully to get clear dome sift. But if you need some kind of special training to use it as you imply, which is beyond what ever Im doing, (I only spent hours on this site before I decided to get this item) then that should be clairified to other potential buyers of the bubble box.
are you magnifying? if so do you see LOTS of heads? and if you see LOTS of heads does it STILL not melt? cause if you see LOTS of heads and its STILL not melting that would be frustrating no doubt. lemme know. magnification is almost necessary cause they all look like golden piles but when you magnify you see otherwise. so lemme know if your at least magnifying or whats going on.
Im still trying to get a jewlers loupe. Right now all I have is a 5x magnifying glass and a 420 scope and they both are a pain in the ass to use. But on some of my runs there was a bunch of stalks in there so to be honest Im not toatally sure what amount of heads to stalks that make it through the 104u. I ve tried 3 strains and a few different methods and nothing.
Anhedonia - don't give up! I know you can produce excellent quality dry sifted hash..try the following dry sifting method with your Bubble Box....also check out other dry sifting threads here at fmb.com...and I'm sure you will get there.
Probably the easiest way to get melty dry sift is to do two "runs", the first for quality (melty) and the second run for quantity (to remove all the resin heads from the material)....lets deal with the quality run, the aim is to separate about 10% ~ 20% of the resin on the material on this first run through, this should be done gently with bud that is dried, cured and properly stored for several months or more for best results.
Remove the three mesh frames from the Bubble Box, as they are easier to work with that way.
Lightly grind or break up frozen buds over the top screen, a few grams at a time.
Use a massage vibrator on the side of top of the frame or tap the side or top of the frame with a padded drum type stick or simply pick up the frames and use a very gentle horizontal oscillating action for a minute or so.
Lift up the top frame, and over a container, plate or tray you have nearby, up turn the frame and tap the wooden frame a few times to remove the lightly sifted material and then lightly grind another few frozen over the top mesh and repeat.
Once you have worked the material, use the Bubble Box card to scrape up all the powder that has fallen through the top mesh onto the second two meshes and put this on the top mesh that has previously been tapped out upside to make sure it is clean.
Use vibration with carding, tapping, oscillations or carding until about 3/4 of the kif has passed through the top mesh.
With a 20x or 30x magnifying glass check out the stuff that remains on top of the mesh, this should be mostly non-active stalks and broken up plant matter with a small % of resin heads.
You can resift the fall through again through the top mesh, monitor your progress with a magnifying glass, but make sure you stop before you add more contaminants to the lower meshes (it's best to not allow the crap in rather than try to remove it later which is why a vibrating stack of frames alone won't produce great quality dry sift) A magnifying glass is an asset to the dry sifter.
Remove the top frame and set it aside.
Use a combination of vibration with scraping a card over the second mesh until about 3/4 has passed through this second mesh screen. Repeat this again, making sure to up turn the screen frame and tap it several times to clean it, then scrape up the dry sift on the 3rd mesh and resift it on the second mesh frame until about 3/4 has passed through again.
Now that the resin is sitting on the third mesh, use a combination of vibration and a plastic card screed the resin to and fro over the mesh. The round shaped resin heads larger than 70 micron will remain about the mesh, the bits of leaf and stalks will eventually get broken up by the carding action and will pass through this third mesh screen. This takes more time than all the other steps put together.
Keeping working the resin over the third mesh until about 20% ~50% has passed through the mesh while monitoring your progress with a magnifying glass.
The stuff that passes through will be mostly non-active stuff with some small trichomes. The resin that stays above the mesh will, depending on your technique and the quality of the starting material, be mostly resin heads and will bubble and melt.
and once that's done, rework the material through the box to separate all the remaining resin heads. I usually grind the material more finer and card it through the top two meshes several times...resifting while monitoring your progress with a mag glass will improve this rough kif into decent quality hash that will form into a solid with thumb in palm pressure....it's my opinion that if loose dry sift won't form into a solid form with just thumb pressure then there's too much rubbish in there and not enough resin heads.
There's a lot of satisfaction from producing and inhaling hash with such purity. A pea sized amount of this loose resin powder that you've cleaned over the 70 micron mesh will give an excellent buzz that will hard hit your forehead and warm your ears and will be 15 times cleaner for your lungs than the bud it came from. Since this resin is so pure you can inhale and hold it longer than bud, much like vaping.
The best thing about smoking quality dry sift is that you will wake up in the morning feeling fresh and clean, not hung over from inhaling lots of hay which you get from burning bud.
A good way to use your mag glass is to scoop up a little bit of material or resin on the Bubble Box card and hold it close to a light and then check it out.
Happy Hashing!
A good way to use your mag glass is to scoop up a little bit of material or resin on the Bubble Box card and hold it close to a light and then check it out.
also make sure to hold your breath when checking out the resin on the card...or it might get blown away!
When trying to get full melt kief.... its much more dependent on strain than it is what box your using. If I grind up a few grams of lemon skunk on over my box I get a few bowls of full melty kiefy good ness, I can grind up 3 oz of MSS over my box and have a buncha kief, but none is full melt.
I'll get full melt outa my single screen box every day of the week..... just gotta grind green on it and it be the right strain. I use a 2 piece grinder and all my green gets ground on this screen before I smoke.... I dont do anything else with it.
With that said, maybe with a multiscreen box i'd be able to get the full melt outa MSS. Sure i'd like a multiscreen box some day. However its just not feasible right now.... Gotta save to move and start all over again soon.
A buddy of mine uses a wicca box to break nug over and it collects a very large amount of very fine somewhat melty dry sift. it's almost like a persian golden color, very fine also. it only took him two weeks to collect a decent amount of dry sift from the wicca box, i think there were 2 screens in it as well. seeing his finished product made me really want to get one honestly and especially after we smoked some haha.
when it comes to producing melty dry sift, I find the strain used is less important than the mesh sizes used in relation to the trichome size, correct damage-free storage of the material and the technique used. A gentle technique used to small amount of quality dry sifted resin is what you should aim for.
grinding up your material then trying to separate the rubbish is more difficult than not letting in all that broken up leaf matter in the first place.
with all things being equal (technique, starting material etc) if you like the quality of the dry sift that the dual screen Wikka boxes can produce, then you will love the quality you will get from a Bubble box or the Bubbleman set of 4 dry sifting screens.
both the dual screen Wikkas and the Bubbleboxes use similar sized mesh screens...except the set of 4 screens has a stainless steel "work"mesh on top and the Bubble box has a much finer 3rd screen that helps removes lots of contaminant.
Do forget about the Agricultural Pollen Extractor!!
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...tor-2-Edit.jpg
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...or-20-Edit.jpg
http://www.fullmeltbubble.com/galler...or-30-Edit.jpg
Aqua Lab Tech
Cool shots ALT,waiting to see it "ON"
just saw this on tube
I saw the APE tumbler on youtube....but damn, it spins around really fast, way too fast for my liking.
I've seen both the O'Kief and Pollenator tumblers live and they seem to rotate at around the same slow pace, but this APE rotates at what seems like 5 times that speed! What is the APE's mesh cylinder drum RPM? Why is it so damn fast?
The manufacturer of the APE has years of R&D on the machine. The rotation of the motor is fast and that is for a reason. The APE is not like the other tumblers on the market. The reason for the fast speed rate of the motor is to make the plant material fall to the bottom when it rotates. So every time your barrel rotates it is dropping the plant material making a bounce releasing the resin glands. Normal tumblers like the Pollinator or the šPollen Masteršor the Okief machines tumble the weed and making it slide across the screen over and over breaking off the resin glands and plant material.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kif it Kunta
The APE also uses larger screens helping collect the entire resin gland, unlike other machines.
I am smoking 20 min dry sifted Hash from the APE and it stills melts and taste excellent!!
Aqua Lab Tech
Quick question; this has had me guessing for quite a while. What does the "u" stand for in 140u,107u and so on. Also what does the "lpi" stand for in 200lpi?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubbleman
Hey Aqua Lab Tech, can you use that tumbler with regular buds as well? or would it be pointless to do that to the nugs?
” (sounds like mew) = micron
lpi = lines per inch
YBG
Thank you YBG
i get nice dry sift from my box daily. the better grade plant matter u use, the nicer your hash will be. the bubble box is the hash making tool i have come across and i wouldn't ever be caught dead without one. peace to bubble man for his products.
the APE vid on youtube also suggests to dry sift after only 3 ~7 days of drying the plant material.......2, 3 or more months is better. The plant material will dry in a week or two, that part is right but the resin heads will not be. Dry sifting fresh resin heads will result in some of them smearing or smudging on the mesh and the plant material and a much lower yield.
Question : If you used dry ice as shown here - would that work just as well as waiting for months for he clippings to be completely dry ?