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Refining Dry Sift Hash Using Bubblebags
I've been thinking about doing this for a long time and I finally got to do it.
Refining dry sift hash through the Bubblebags system!
Where I currently live in the middle-east it's common to get dry sift hash more than any other form of cannabis. Usually the same seller provides you good, mediocre and even unsmokable product depending on what he has available at the time. The most popular local smoking method is to press the powder hash and then roll it with tobacco. For someone who doesn't smoke tobacco such as myself, it's out of question. I've been smoking it mainly through bong hits and it's fine. However, I really miss the quality bubble hash I used to get. So here goes my first trial at refining the quality of hash and separating it into different micron sizes.
Please comment on any improvements I could make.
I've started with 25 gr of material acquired for around $120 and the 1 gallon Bubblebags system.
I crumbled and loaded it into the system with water and some ice cubes
I did some manual mixing and my friend thought about using an electrical mixer to break it all down. After the mixer was used for around a minute or two, there was almost like a milky foam look to the liquid.
We waited around 20 minutes for the material to settle down
Once we started pulling the bags the most material was stuck in the 220 working bag. I know that with buds, this is what we toss but the amount of material and this being an experiment made me wanna keep it.
It seems like the hash is indica dominant, I didn't get much in the lower micron sizes below 120.
The water that was left after all the bags were pulled had some sediments sitting in it. I believe these to be dust and other contaminants.
I will report back on the smoke test once everything is dry.
The art of kiffing for purity
there's been some good info in this thread....but by just using 5, 6, 7 or 8 meshes alone won't guarantee you that will produce the "pure" as there will always be contaminants the same size as the heads that remain and are not completely separated later
the main things to keep in mind is to not allow the contaminants in, rather than try to remove them later..so always do at least two runs, one gentle run for the pure and then another more aggressive run for the remainding resin heads on the material using a wider range of meshes that will never be as clean (no matter what you do...as has been noticed in this thread)
and the next thing to do on this first "pure" run is to isolate your desired resin heads within a narrow range, rather than sifting all of the various head sizes and then trying to purify them...do this by firstly working out what your desired range of resin heads are within eg a 10 or 20 micron range and then start dry sifting by using two meshes that are close to the max. and min. of this range (not by using 220, 160 or other micron meshes that will allow much more non-active rubbish in with the good stuff)..then clean the heads on the minimum mesh with a card forcing the contaminants and smaller heads through (while the selected range remain on top of the mesh)
The above method will produce a much purer hash than techniques previously posted (anywhere lol) ...I also suspect that this is how Sam Skunkman produces his legendary dry sift using his "secret method" (as well as by using the best clone selected from 40 years of growing, aged plant material and by sifting it between a very narrow select size range of meshes)
and of course, resift all of the remaining material, including what was left above and below the first run to reap the remaining heads and then clean it using techniques mentioned in this thread - multiple meshes, agitating, carding and or vaccuuming etc etc)
happy dry sifting!