Dry sift in humid areas?

Noticed in Clarke's book that he says dry-sifting is best done in very dry climates and that bubble is best for humid areas. I live in what is essentially if not technically a rainforest - coastal Oregon. Lots of humidity issues here reaching firewood, mildew in the house, PM on outdoor plants, proper drying and curing... and now this!

I was getting pretty amped up to embark on a dry-sift journey, researching the materials and techniques but that makes me second-guess. Is it worth it to try in a place which often has humidity of 60-100% (often 80% indoors)?

I've been happy enough with my bubblebags but was interested in experiencing the finest. There is a month or two in the summer where its nicely dry, but not sure sifting gear is worth it to have such a short window of time.

I do use a 3-piece grinder and a little stash box with a screen on the bottom so I am not unfamiliar with kief but I have tons of trim to run and I wouldn't mind a break from the bubble regimen if dry-sifting is practical here.

I'm also wondering if anyone uses those laser-cut screens in the Clark book, or if the more common silk/nylon are the way to go.

I kief useing a pollinator which I keep in a freezer, I all so pre-freeze product and produce a Med. grade product (cold press). I live in Wash.

I had to dry some outdoor buds in a garage, and i knew the ambient humidity would be way too high.
So i remembered my organic chemistry skills, and how we used to use desiccants in a vacuum. The vacuum isn't necessary. So I just used a large trash can, and made an elevated screen on the bottom. And then I covered the screen in calcium chloride. You can buy it as an ice melt, driveway heat is one brand.
It pulls moisture out of the air, and the water precipitates under the screen. As long as you remove the moisture daily, it keep the ambient humidity low. You would be shocked with how much water the desiccant can remove from the air.
You would have to desiccate it and then immediately process it. I bet it will work.