I have seent Dutch Master Penetrator w/ neem oil work extremely well on huge pm problems.
I have seent Dutch Master Penetrator w/ neem oil work extremely well on huge pm problems.
but if you just google "greenlight fruit tree spray" you can read all about it/purchase some.
fresh air all time, to many fans is not nough,
I live in tropics.
oh yer i thought mould was inert, meaning didnt sink or float, but seperated, so yer can use bubblebags on mouldy pot, with trim floating, mould not doin anything an trycs sinking, all good
cheers bubble an cones Mozz
Before you ever make fun of an old person, consider that the alternative to old is, not old...
and the only way to achieve not old, is not good
Thanks for the help guys. One more question, do you think being over at his room and then going home to mine, could i possibly carry it on my clothes and introduce it to my room?
those fuckers will totally jump on yer pants and jump right off in your room. Ive had mites so determined that they jumped from dryind plants in one room, through ducting through the wall and down stairs out the ducting into my veg room........serious epidemic last winter. Be careful!
PM can be avoided if you recognise it early, but if its alreaddy there you can try:
1. Neem oil, works, but you must spray it from the vegetative stage, but it can also be that it wont work if the strain you are growing is very weak with PM, some strains tend to get infected very fast some seem to be totaly resistent agains it.
2. Pure milk, direct from the cow. This means it has to be milk from a farm, that was not processed. You have to mix 1/10 L milk with 9/10 L water, spray it on your plants. 2-3 tmes in 1 week, I tried it, and it works 100%. But you have to do it at least 3 weeks before harwest. The negative effect is the bad smell a few days after spraying, but after 2 weeks it totally gone, together with the Powedery Mildew.
3. Lecithin from Soja works great. There is a product we have here in Europe made direct for PM tratment on your plants. It is made for vegetables and is 100% bilo product. Here is a link:
and the most important of all, keep your growing envirement clean at all times, as clean as possible...
keep it healthy,
Oax
Last edited by Oaxacan; 01-26-2009 at 01:47 PM.
Not all drugs are good, some are great!
in the FAQ page of bubblebag.com, BubbleMan recommends the extra step of putting moldy buds in a jar with water, shaking them up, and skimming the mold spores off the surface. my question is this, if mold spores float and trichromes sink, when using a bubble now could i just let the slurry settle in the 5 gal bucket, and skim them all off in one go? let me know what you think...
You'd have to wait for someone who has tried it, for a better answer. But if you have the opportunity to get as much mold spores off before starting, I would go with that option, then make some bubble
I had just posted in the other "spotting pm with an LED light" thread..basically just stated NONE of the organic solutions worked for me at all. milk, bicarb, agri-peroxide all failed miserably. Ended up gutting a room and repainting with oil based Killz embedded with a sulphur spray IE: Best solution in a bottle for me was SAFER SULPHUR SPRAY. I don't think it can be beat if used as a preventative, or if the powdery is caught very very early, but even then, usually by the time you can see it, it's way too late.
What kind of role does humidity have in powdery mildews' life?